Once Upon a Time in Vietnam…

Girl praying at a temple in Hanoi

Once upon a time in Vietnam, people learned how to cast bronze from copper and tin. Artisans made bronze tools, weapons, and ornate war drums. A unique civilization thrived in a wide, fertile valley. We’re flying over that valley now.

The trip from Taipei to Hanoi takes us over Vietnam’s Red River Valley, home of what could be called the first “Vietnam.” It’s supposed to be beautiful from above. (I wouldn’t know. I’m in an aisle seat).

3,000 Years Ago…

Civilization in the Red River Valley goes back at least 3,000 years to the Bronze Age. At the time, civilizations were thriving in Egypt, India, China, and the Middle East, where Babylon emerged as the dominant power. A bit more recently, in 2,000 BC, ancient Britons built Stonehenge.

Meanwhile, in the Red River Valley, another civilization known as the Dong Son culture thrived. Just outside of Hanoi at a place called Cổ Loa, archaeologists discovered the remains of a fortress built around that time. They’re still at work, unearthing ancient pottery, bronze arrows and tools, and Dong Son bronze drums.

Cổ Loa was a fortress. Two outer walls with two moats in between them enclosed a walled citadel inside. The outermost wall was 5 miles long. They built those walls for a reason.

Co Loa architecture looked something like this. Credit: istockphoto/Nguyen Thi Nhu Quynh
Inside the citadel walls, Cổ Loa architecture looked something like this. Credit: istockphoto/Nguyen Thi Nhu Quynh

In 204 BC, a Han Chinese general and his army invaded and conquered the inhabitants of the Red River Valley. The victorious general was supposed to claim the territory for China, but guess what? He went rogue, claiming the territory for himself. Then he put himself in charge and named the territory “Nanyue,” which translates to “Nam Việt” in Vietnamese.

Was this the “First Vietnam”? That depends on who you ask. But despite the name, the experts seem to agree that this wasn’t really the first “Vietnam.” Not quite yet.

They’re Back

Then in 111 BC, a larger Han Chinese army invaded. This time, they meant business. They conquered Nanyue, took control, and made it part of a Han Chinese province. That was the end of “Nanyue.”

Life under Han control could be brutal. One affluent local official tried to resist through legal means. For his efforts, he was beheaded. The local Chinese warlord didn’t know it at the time, but the price for beheading this particular fellow would be high.

The resistor’s wife was named Trưng Trắc. She, along with her younger sister, Trưng Nhị, started organizing a clandestine army. They were really good at it.

Enter the Trưng Sisters

In 40 AD, the Trưng sisters and their volunteer army attacked and overtook the Chinese-held fortress in their home town. After gaining momentum and numbers of volunteers, they proceeded to rout their Chinese overlords out of 65 citadels and out of the region.

Tales abound of how the Trưng sisters, riding atop war elephants, led their volunteer army into victorious combat. Whoa. War elephants? No wonder the enemy ran away.

The Trưng sisters established a new, independent kingdom. Finally, the inhabitants of the Red River Valley lived in a kingdom ruled by their own people.

Hai Bà Trưng Temple in Hanoi. Credit: wikipedia/Tttrung
Hai Bà Trưng Temple in Hanoi. “Hai Bà Trưng” translates to “The Two Ladies Trưng.” Credit: wikipedia/Tttrung

 

But the good times didn’t last. Just three years after throwing out the occupiers, an even larger Han force invaded. Once again, China occupied the region. This time, the occupation lasted 1,000 years.

Some consider this to be the first Chinese invasion of Vietnam. If so, it was the first of many.

Today, every February, Vietnam commemorates the Trưng sisters. Streets, schools,  and districts are named after them. Numerous temples have been built in their honor. For the Vietnamese, the Trưng sisters embody the fighting spirit for independence.

To be continued…

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