We’re staying at the Sofitel Metropole Legend Hotel, in the heart of Hanoi. From here, it’s a short walk to the Old Quarter, just on the other side of Hoan Kiem lake and a park. This isn’t the most glamorous part of the city, but it might be the area with the most character.
On our first visit to Hanoi, we stayed at a Sheraton on West Lake – a beautiful destination, for sure. The Sheraton was great. West Lake is a very nice part of town.
Breakfast Banh-Mi
One of my favorite memories from that trip happened early one morning. When we’re traveling, I like to take early-morning walks to explore whatever neighborhood we might be in. So one morning I set out from the Sheraton in West Lake.
Along the way, I came upon a roadside food vendor on the other side of the street. Commuters on motorbikes were lined up for breakfast to-go. She must have been doing something right. I had to investigate further.
Twenty minutes later, I was sitting on a park bench looking out on West Lake, consuming a breakfast banh-mi that I’ll never forget. (The long version of this story is here).
West Lake was beautiful, but on that trip, something about Hanoi’s Old Quarter drew us in like a magnet. That’s where we always wanted to go. And now that’s where we’re staying.
The Magic Sword
We’re staying in Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem district, named for Hoan Kiem lake. (Hồ Hoàn Kiếm). You might also see it referred to as Hồ Gươm. Here’s why…
In the 15th century, Vietnam was occupied by Chinese forces, (again). A Vietnamese hero named Lê Lợi defeated the Chinese army and threw out the occupiers. According to legend, a local god, the Dragon King, gave him a magic sword to take into battle.
Some time later, when Lê Lợi was boating on the lake, a turtle swam up to his boat with a message: the Dragon King wanted his sword back. Of course Lê Lợi complied. So now the lake has two names: Sword Lake, and Lake of the Returned Sword.
Hanoi’s Old Quarter is also in this district. Being in the Old Quarter feels like it must be like the Hanoi of hundreds of years ago, with one exception – St. Joseph’s Cathedral. It’s a 19th-century neo-gothic church that’s still in use today.
Our neighboring districts are Ba Dinh and Hai Bà Trưng. “Hai Bà Trưng” translates to “The Two Ladies Trung.” Does that sound familiar? If you’ve been following along, maybe you’ve figured out that “Two Ladies Trung” refers to the Trưng sisters – the 1st-century war heroes. Remember?
Ba Dinh District
The Ba Dinh district is home to government buildings and national monuments, including Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. Here in Ba Dinh Square, Ho Chi Minh made his famous speech declaring Vietnam’s independence. Can you guess the year?
How many Westerners would guess 1975, at the end of the Vietnam War? That’s when Vietnam became independent, right? Nope.
Ho Chi Minh gave that speech in 1945. He was declaring Vietnam’s independence from 70 years of French colonial rule. Here are the first words of his speech:
“All men are created equal. They are endowed by their Creator with certain inalienable rights, among them are Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Happiness.”
Sound familiar? They’re from America’s Declaration of Independence, when America declared independence from England. Surprising, eh? To the average Westerner, Ho Chi Minh was full of surprises.
To be continued…
Note:
Beautiful photo of a street in the Old Quarter. Credit: istockphoto/mikeinlondon
